Monday, 30 November 2015

Cosmetic creme firmness test

The sensory characteristics of cosmetics

Consumer acceptance of cosmetics is strongly influenced by the senses - the look and feel, an appealing scent (or none at all). The same is true of products in the related sectors of pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals. In few other industries do marketing promises, imply so much as in the world of beauty, health and well-being. Being well worth the price is the consumer's expectation.
Topically applied cosmetics are judged by finger feel
The sense of touch, via the texture of the product on the skin is the major factor in many cosmetic products, often implying luxuriance and nourishment, and leading to brand loyalty.
The performance of those in the form of solids, semi-solids and powders are the most reliant on physical textural properties in the balance between consumer appeal and packaging practicality.
None more so than a moisturizing topically-applied, semi-solid, skin-care creme, which should exhibit a certain amount of firmness.

Rich, smooth, silky, oily, greasy, sticky or firm

Consumers judge the quality of cosmetics in a sensory manner. Evaluating the texture through touch, as they interact with the product: dispensing, pouring from its packaging and applying to the skin Appearance and scent complement this consideration, but are not able to be measured as objectively. A consumer may describe the sensory quality with terms such as rich, smooth, silky, oily, greasy, sticky or firm.

Measuring firmness with a texture analyzer

Firmness of texture can be measured with a spherical probe
A penetration method is a representative test for a moisturizer's desired behavior. A consumer will penetrate the surface of the creme with the fingers, to extract an amount of product to apply by spreading onto the skin. Topically-applied, semi-solid, skin-care products may be positively characterized by a number attributes. In addition to a level of firmness and ease of application, lack of stickiness is desirable.
The moisturizer's firmness is calculated from the peak force as the probe compresses, penetrates and enters the sample, and we also measure the work from the area under the resulting curve during the down stroke to gain even more detailed information about the spreadability as the fingers move into and through the product.

The benefits of of texture analysis in the cosmetics sector

Cosmetic chemists can analyse the impact of changes to ingredients, brought on by safety legislation or replicate the feel of existing high-quality products, with alternative preparations.
Product development driven by consumer demand - new colors, enhanced aroma, or maintaining competitive advantage class-leading absorbency, sun protection can all be implemented with minimal, or no cost to texture. The consumer may have a lack of confidence that the product will achieve its marketing promises, or its intended health benefits if the texture does not align with those expectations.

The FTC texture analyzer can test cosmetic creme for firmness – see this video.